By John Kriz
Lamb, especially leg of lamb, is a classic Easter meal, but it often intimidates people. Maybe not as much as a Thanksgiving turkey, but still a challenge. Choices. Recipes. Help!
Fear not. Read on, and find some no-brainer recipes and advice.
Choices
Butterflied Lamb This is a leg of lamb that has been boned, and not tied up into a roll. It comes out more or less flat. This cut is best cooked on a grill, so if you’re up for that, and the weather is co-operating, this is an option. Note that carving a butterflied leg of lamb is very easy.
Whole Leg of Lamb These come long and oblong, with several types of bones in them. As such, they can create challenges depending on the size of your oven or roasting pan. Plus, carving them can be a challenge best performed by a surgeon.
Semi-Boneless Leg of Lamb Similar to whole leg of lamb, but less so, and easier to carve.
Boned and Rolled Leg of Lamb As the name says, it’s boneless, so is very easy to carve. Simply put, it’s a butterflied leg of lamb that’s been tied up in butcher’s twine, or maybe put in a mesh bag. Be sure to cut the twine or bag off before carving.
Lamb vs. Mutton
Lamb is a young sheep. Mutton is an old sheep. Mutton has a strong taste and is best reserved for the adventurous.
Grass Fed?
Lambs are ruminants, meaning they are designed to eat grasses. If the lamb is grass fed, it should say so on the wrapping. In my view, grass fed is best, as it’s how nature designed.
Where to Find Lamb
Around Easter you’ll find that most grocers and butchers carry leg of lamb, though they might not have all the choices listed above available.
Most of the lamb you’ll find will be from the USA or Australia. Australian lamb is almost always grass fed.
New Canaan Butcher has lamb, but you might want to order ahead and ask for the exact cut you want. Stewart’s Market has lamb, as does Acme (which often carries Australian grass fed lamb), Whole Foods and Stew Leonard’s. You might consider trying The Hickories (www.thehickories.org) organic farm in Ridgefield, which raises lamb, among many other things. Availability varies, so check first.
Cooking
Butterflied Leg of Lamb I recommend marinating it overnight, covered, in red wine, some olive oil, a tablespoon of brown sugar, a shot of red wine vinegar and either dried rosemary or some fresh sprigs. If you’re energetic add a quartered onion and some peeled garlic cloves to the mix. Then cook it on the grill until done. Feel free to add salt and pepper, and some diced garlic and dried rosemary, on the lamb while cooking. What’s ‘done’? Depends on taste, but medium rare is usually best. Start cooking with high heat to sear it on each side, then lower the heat. Note that butterflied leg of lamb will have variable thicknesses, so parts could be medium, and others medium rare or rare. Cooking time is usually around 45 minutes, but keep checking.
Leg of Lamb – All Other Types Here I recommend taking a knife with a long, narrow blade, such as a paring knife, and poke some holes in the lamb and stuff those holes with garlic cloves cut in half lengthwise. Assume 5-6 of these – more if you like garlic. Line the roasting pan with foil (eases clean up) and in the bottom add a peeled, quartered onion, a head of garlic cut sideways to expose all the cloves, and a sprig or two of fresh rosemary. Also pour some red wine and/or beef broth in the roasting pan to at most ¼ inch depth. Put the lamb in the pan. Mix some olive oil, dried rosemary, and diced garlic or garlic powder (assuming you like garlic) in a bowl and brush it over the lamb. Sprinkle the lamb with salt and pepper. Cook at 325 degrees until done, which is around 130-135 degrees internal temperature for medium rare. (Cooking time varies with size. Lamb with bones takes longer.) Use an instant read thermometer in the thickest part to test. Transfer done lamb to a carving board. If you want some bling, lay a sprig or two of fresh rosemary on the lamb to impress everyone before carving.
Carving
Carving depends on the bone structure and that varies depending on how your lamb was butchered. Use a decent, sharp chef’s knife, a carving fork and some tongs. You’ll likely need a sharp paring knife to cut around the bones once the big bits of meat have been carved off.
Condiments
The British like mint sauce with lamb. It comes in a jar. Others prefer Pickapeppa sauce from Jamaica. Up to you. If it’s gravy you seek, skim what fat you can off the roasting pan drippings, add some flour (I like arrowroot – gluten free) and mix with a whisk. If your pan is not deep, pour the drippings into a big bowl and whisk – avoids spills. Homemade!
Leftovers
Cold lamb is terrific. Try it if you have not yet done so. I recommend carving all the meat off the bones once dinner is over and the meat has cooled. Store it in a tight container.
Wine
Yes, you’ll need wine with your lamb. (Is that even a question?) As always tastes vary, but speaking as a winemaker I recommend a nice Syrah (sometimes spelt Shiraz). But most decent red wines will work.
John J Kriz is a 30+ year New Canaan resident, scratch cook and home winemaker. The opinions expressed are his own.
