By Paul Reitano
They say good food is subjective. They are wrong. Sure, overcooked pasta can satisfy after three glasses of Super Tuscan – but that doesn’t make it any good. There is a preferred method and desired result to most dishes – and here in New Canaan we are lucky enough to have some great chefs turning out some great dishes. But which dishes reign supreme? That’s what we’re here to find out. This column will celebrate those who are going above and beyond in their craft – and save you the time come lunch hour when you are faced with multiple Chicken Salad sandwiches. Yes, there is one that deserves you more than the rest.
Each week, we will feature a different New Canaan local – and shine a light upon their preferred culinary indulgence. If you are the type of person who orders two Sesame Chickens at Ching’s table because you don’t like to share – this column is for you. If sometimes you finish the Fjord’s Smoked Dip on the way home in the car – this column is for you. If you’ve accidentally stuffed an entire Rosie’s Pistachio Muffin in your mouth even when you were already full – this column is for you. Unless I’m the only one that does that.
This week, we are talking with Abby Lane. You might know Abby, because Abby knows everyone. A lifelong New Canaanite, she grew up eating hamburgers from Cherry Street and pancakes from the Country Cupboard (now The Back End). Today she practices law at Kirkland & Ellis. More importantly – when it comes to food Abby is very particular and has exquisite taste. I first realized this while admiring a Mediterranean Grazing Board from Palmer’s Market at her son’s birthday party. I knew then that she held the keys to eating well this far away from Manhattan.
Me: Do you feel like New Canaan has a good food scene?
Abby: Absolutely.
Me: How has it evolved since you grew up here?
Abby: There’s a much wider variety in terms of types of food and places to choose from. It used to be that a nice meal out meant Gates, Silvermine Tavern (now Graybarns) or if feeling extra elevated – Roger Sherman.
Me: Preparing anything special for Thanksgiving?
Abby: We’re hosting 13 people this year. We always get the Gozzi “white” turkey from Walter Stewart’s. It’s from a local family farm in Guilford and it’s amazing. Depending on how indulgent I’m feeling, we also love the Holiday Cheese Board from Plum Plums.
Me: What are you drinking?
Abby: Every November I have a “wine off.” A couple days a week, I’ll pit different wines against each other and the winner at the end of the month gets to be served at Thanksgiving.
Me: You are a genius.
Abby: I’ll usually match up a Beaujolais against a Pinot Noir – things that go well with turkey. Last year the winner was a Stoller Pinot Noir.
Me: Does the wine-off include other people?
Abby: My husband David will partake but he’s pretty much thumbs up or thumbs down. I’ll also take a couple finalists to get-togethers with friends and get their opinions.
Me: Alright, Abby, no messing around. The best thing you are eating right now in New Canaan is…
Abby: Without hesitation: The Salmon Poke Bowl at Miyuki’s Noodle Shop. I generally don’t like Poke Bowls but the texture and flavors are so good. The dressing is olive oil, Yuzu and Shiso – it’s just perfect. The presentation is really nice, too. They make it when you come, it hasn’t been sitting around and it never feels “slapped together.”
