By Emma Barhydt
“Here in the heart of New Canaan, CT, we believe that great meals start with the best ingredients, friends, family, (and of course) our favorite wines,” so reads The Elm Restaurant bio. They live their beliefs at Elm, as I had the opportunity to experience first hand earlier this autumn. Led by the talented Chef Luke Venner, Elm offers a delightful dining experience that combines seasonal American dishes with imaginative twists inspired by a variety of culinary traditions. Chef Luke Venner’s expertise shines through in every dish, presenting flavors that are both comforting and innovative, creating a dining experience that’s new every time you eat at Elm.
I began with a tantalizing array of appetizers and sharebales. The Spicy Tuna Tartare with avocado, crispy shallots, and ponzu was a delight of textures and flavors. The tuna was impeccably fresh, and the ponzu added sweetness and a subtle citrus brightness without being too harsh or acidic. The cripsy shallots added that little bt of crunch to add interest to the softer textures of the Salmon and Avocado. It was perhaps my favorite thing I ate and a perfect start to the rest of a spectacular meal.
The Cheddar Pull-Apart Rolls with cultured maple butter were a delightful surprise. The combination of salty cheese and sweet maple seemed unconventional, but it worked wonderfully. The rolls themselves were a warm and fluffy brioche which felt like taking a little bit of a cloud. The cheese was a subtle flavor in the roll, and could possibly get lost under the flavor of the maple, so butter carefully.
The Burrata with nasturtium and pinenut pesto and served with toast was the dish that socked me the most in my journey through the Elm menu. Burrata with pesto on toast is one of my all time favorite dishes, so I was curious to see Chef Luke’s take on it. The burrata was more dense than I was used to and exceptionally creamy, and the nasturtium pesto, with its lighter twist on the classic basil flavor, proved to be thoroughly delightful. The bread was a thick cut sourdough toasted to perfection, you could see the grill marks. If you’re serving toast at a restaurant that is how it should be done. It was, without a doubt, the best burrata I’ve ever had.
The Smoked Trout Dip with pickled onions and peppers, served with seed crackers, was a classic fish dip turned up to 11. The pickles added a welcome punch of acidity that cut through the creamy smokiness of the dip. The smokiness was present, but not overwhelming. The crackers provided a satisfying crunch, making this dish a phenominal blend of flavors and textures.
The Guacamole with cilantro and blue corn tostadas offered a unique twist on a classic favorite. The tostadas remained delightfully crisp even after being topped with guac for a while, making each bite a pleasure. The guac was smooth and creamy with just enough bigger bites of avocado to add textural interest.
Moving on to the entrees, the Lumache, a pasta dish with spicy pork bolognese, honey, and oregano, was a standout. The flavors were delicate and even slightly floral, a departure from a usual heavy bolognese. It was still hearty and warm, but didn’t feel too heavy. I don’t typically love bolognese, but for me that’s a textural issue and Chef Luke’s expert technique of grinding the sausage into the tomato sauce created a harmonious blend completely won me over.
The Smoked Chicken Bowl with brown rice, radish, spicy mayo, and a fried egg was a brunch lover’s dream. The fried egg was perfectly cooked and the runny yolk added an extra layer of luxury as it coated the ingredients.
The Pork Belly Bao Buns with soy caramel and cabbage slaw were pure indulgence. The buns were expertly prepared, offering a balance of fluffy and chewy textures. The soy caramel added a luxurious sweetness to the tender pork, while the cabbage slaw provided a refreshing contrast.
The pièce de résistance of the meal was the “animal style” Wagyu Burger served double-double. This colossal burger, featuring two Wagyu patties, American cheese, bacon, pickles, tomato, lettuce, and a generous drizzle of spicy mayo, was a true masterpiece. The combination of American cheese on a Wagyu burger was a bold choice that paid off handsomely. It was an absolute delight and a must-try for burger aficionados.
Finally, dessert brought the Carrot Layer Cake and Warm Chocolate Cake to the table. I swear, Chef Luke fixed every problem I had with carrot cake. The cream cheese frosting was just sweet enough, and the addition of candied orange peels provided both texture and a delightful citrus note. Chef Luke’s ingenious technique of finely grinding the raisins into the flour allowed for the flavor without the texture. The warm chocolate cake, with its gooey center and rich chocolate flavor, was the perfect ending to an extraordinary meal, especially when paired with vanilla bean gelato.
Elm under the guidance of Chef Luke Venner is a culinary destination that should not be missed. Each dish is a testament to Chef Luke’s culinary expertise and creativity. The intentional and innovative choices made in crafting these dishes left a lasting impression, and I am very much looking forward to what Chef Luke has in store for the future.
